Ok, am fully in love with this place - i have pictures which i will try and upload later tonight or tomorrow. Already I have met many great people, i have found my Kathmandu Guru - a lovely woman called Helen from Toronto, she has been living here on and off since 2008, a mighty achievement due to the lack of hot water and electricity controlled exclusively by the Indian government - so we are in black out central, but everything seems to tick by.
Today i woke at around 2pm, which i guess is ok as I am still feeling 6 hours behind, so i only got the chance for 4 hours of getting lost... I finally found myself in Durbar Square, built in the 8th Century and housing architecture not only from the Hindu tradition but also from the Baghdad Enlightenment Missionaries, alas no Islamic culture remains albeit one beautiful building made of mud and plaster, still with a prayer tower. As the title suggests I took a tour from a bloke called Rava who showed me everything around including places no other unguided tourist could go, the price $7 for an hour of interest - not exactly expensive but I need to stop thinking in Western finance, so I do believe I was a little hustled especially as the price started at 1500rp ($20). He was very good at it though, with a booklet of recommendations of tourists who he had guided from everywhere in the world with incredible forgeries of stated prices below, I do unfortunately have a respect for tricksters of this nature so allowed myself, just this once to be tricked! Needless to say, I won't be telling Helen about this!
This, unfortunately, was not where the contricks ended - I was literally attacked by two guys dressed as gurus who planted a tilak on my forehead (bare in mind an authentic tilak is done by yourself and not someone else) and tried to charge me 500rp for this service rape. I gave them 100 to be shot of them and left the square with tunnel hearing knowing that they had already told they're mates about me, who pestered me until I escaped into a little shop, then they left me alone. Service raping is epidemic everywhere in Asia, for those not familiar service raping is giving someone something that cannot be given back on the pretense that it is for free/ a gift/ a blessing then demanding money for that gift/blessing and normally adopting a 'no speaky english' when the bartering of how much they will steal off you comes into play!
I did witness, in person, the living goddess of Kathmandu - the kumari who gave me her blessing as Rava knew the priest who looked after her. The kumari is supposably present in a certain little girl. The girl is chosen by meeting the requirement of having 32 perfect characteristics, which as Rava told me includes her forehead, lips, eyes and "punani". She is then the reigning living deity untill the aforementioned 'blossoms into life' then she is sent back to her family, a new kumari is appointed and the ex-goddess teenager is forgotten alongside a myth that any man to marry her will be cursed with bad luck and a loveless life... some say Hinduism is cruel. I left her presence with a sense of sadness of her 'use' in Nepali culture, but an understanding that this is just how things have been done for certainly a thousand years. She does also receive 25% of the entry fee paid by every white/chinese to enter the square so hopefully the erstwhile deity has the sense to leave the country that made and enslaved her in search of a good fortuned, love filled life. I left back towards Thamel with a International football player for Cameron with such topics in debate, who said footballer's don't have brains?
My budget for the day has now been spent so I am back at the guesthouse enjoying an Everest beer and waiting for something else to happen, I doubt I will be waiting long.
Did Rava happen to have a carpet shop? xx
ReplyDeleteHis mate did! He took me there, absolutely disgusting - i looked at the bottom of them and discovered they were machine made, i told him this and Rava's mate assured me that they weren't and it was just the way they were hand stitched now, needless to say i didn't buy anything! XX
ReplyDeleteBravo, that's my boy!
ReplyDeletelove your blog - waiting for it to hit the front page! What an articulate young man you are said the sad old lady from millandxxxxxxx
ReplyDeletehow did you get to the kumari? only hindu people can do that?! and even they have to wait a long time for an audience. Read from goddess to mortal. brilliant book by an ex kumari
ReplyDeleteHey Hari, how r u?
ReplyDeleteNo if u read the latter blog, i was well and truly conned by the guide, i thought that what i was doing was special but it turns out no! Just had a blessing from her from her window... that is all, felt like a true sucker!
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